Install Falcon Exit Device

Install Falcon Exit Device

Welcome to Locksmith Channel!

Today, we’re going to be installing a Falcon exit device crash bar on a door that is constantly beat up by skis, boots, luggage racks, and anything else you can imagine that would be traveling through the hallways of a ski resort. In the original equipment that we are pulling off the door, I found all kinds of broken pieces. The first and most important thing that I will be focusing on with this project is to solve the problem long term. The way we can do this most effectively is to eliminate as many protruding and moving parts as possible. Getting rid of the original lever, in this case, will remove the biggest moving part and by doing so, will do away with many of the parts that are continuously breaking. After the lever is disassembled, we will go ahead and install the cover plate to cover up the previous holes and damage from a very rough installation. You can tell by looking at these holes that they were not precision drilled and no jig was used. This particular cover plate is a matte black one that is readily available at nearly any hardware store. Once the cover plate is in place, I can go ahead and re-install my jig to get a hole that works. Refer to the instructions to ensure that you have proper drill points and installation holes so that you can align the holes for the two through bolts that are going to go through this plate and the rim cylinder that will be mounted outside. Once finished, take a moment to admire and appreciate the fact that there are no protruding parts that are going to get caught on ski boots, ski jackets, etc. Next, we will need to trim down the tailpiece with the Dremel so that it fits nicely. The bolts that are locking the exit device to the pull trim are actually going completely through the door, so this is the strongest bond possible. You want to make sure that the through bolts and screws are set all the way and that nothing is sticking out. This will ensure that nothing is sticking out later down the road. After installation on this side, the device is hanging down just a little bit and there is a tiny spot that didn’t get painted. Because of the three dimensional sides of that gap, the maintenance team decided that it would simply be painted with touch up paint.

On the back side of the panic exit device, I am, again, going to be utilizing through bolts. I do this whenever I can on wooden doors, as wood screws are a particularly bad idea for nearly any application that is going to sustain a beating day to day. When installing the strike, make sure you have the proper gap. I had to move the exit device down a little so it was not being installed on the three dimensional trim. For this project, I drilled and tapped with Milwaukee combos that worked on this application. Unfortunately, I was unable to install the heavy-duty handle that came with the device because they only sent one screw and one HD washer. For the time being, we have mounted a temporary handle and will be back upon arrival of the correct hardware.

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By |2022-04-13T01:12:45+00:00April 10th, 2022|Exit Devices, Wayne's Lock Shop|0 Comments

StrongArm Carbide bits

Welcome to Locksmith Channel!

Today, we’re going to be taking a look at drill bits. Obviously, there are many different sizes and qualities of drill bits that we all carry in our tool bags. I, personally, always start with ¼”, 3/8”, and then jump up to ½”, especially when I know that I will be drilling through metal. It is always important to phase up in size instead of just trying to ram a ½” bit through metal, as this will be hard on you and on the drill battery, not to mention the large bit you started out with. Self-auguring wood bits are nice to have in your bag for wood, and heavy-duty extensions are wonderful for very thick walls. Some extensions just have a hex head and don’t actually grab and secure the bit you are using, so be sure you have to extensions that utilize ball bearings in order to secure your bit in place with a click-locking type mechanism. You do not want to lose your bit in your workspace or, worse yet, the wall you are working in!

Let’s talk hardware store drill bits. In this department, you’re going to find that the selection is pretty limited in terms of what materials you can drill…mostly wood. You could probably drill through metal with these, but you won’t be drilling for very long, and I would not recommend it. You won’t be able to do any support metal or other thick pieces, maybe just a thin piece of trim. Again, we want to be sure to phase up in size, and not just jump into a large application. Another bit you could pick up at the hardware store is what is called an HSS, which stands for high-speed steel. This bit is going mild steel, but not hardened steel and not concrete. The HSS bits go up to larger diameters like 1”. This is great for enlarging and stuffing wires into the hole. Other sizes include ¼”, 5/8” and ¾”. The idea of starting small applies to these bits, as well.

Now for the game-changer, the StrongArm carbide bit, the king of drill bits. Since I have started using StrongArm bits, I have had great luck. I have ¼”, 3/8”, and ½” in these, as well. Looking at the ¼” Strong Arm and hardware store brands high speed steel bits side by side, you will notice that the fluting that runs the length of the bit on the hardware store brand makes it very weak. These bits are not very flexible because they are made from hardened steel. If you get hung up on something while drilling, this bit will snap right in half under the pressure caused by any kind of binding or even just a little bit of an angle. StrongArm carbide bits have more of a mild steel shank, so there is a lot more flexibility and very little chance of it breaking. It’s got a sharpened carbide tip that will allow you to drill through just about any type of material out there including metal, wood, and concrete. A little tip from me, if you can scratch some of the material off the surface of your thumbnail, you’ve got a really sharp tip on your bit and you’re ready to tackle all of the fore listed materials. These are basically masonry bits that are put through a special process with higher (and better) brazing. Thicker tips, thicker and higher-grade carbide, and really nice sharp cutting edges that will easily cut through anything you can imagine. Another highlight of these amazing bits are the various lengths they come in. 6”, 12”, 18”, and even 24”. These bits are really marketed to the safe and vault industry, but I quite enjoy them for electronic access jobs. Another really handy bit to have is a four headed bit. These would be used for getting through concrete with rebar in it because instead of having two sides to the bit, there are four. Hitting rebar with a two headed bit could bind your bit and snap it, but the four headed carbide head supports the bit all the way into the hole so that it cannot be shoved to the side with a weird angle on it. Putting enough pressure on the bit at this point will get you through the material at hand.

I also carry a couple of other gadget-y things in my truck because you never know when you need to get creative. If you need to get a fairly big hole that’s pretty far out there, step bits locked into ball bearing extensions will get the job done. The reason we came up with these was because years ago, we did not have access to these longer bits, and the hardware stores did not carry anything 24” long. I ended up making these tools myself at the hardware store and now, they are a great back up plan. In order to make this tool, you just need to have a big enough diameter to let the collar pass, and a hex shaped bit. Once you factor these things in, this tool is pretty interchangeable.

Now, we will move onto hole saws. I have learned my lesson with standard hole saws burning up while being used on stainless steel, so I always make sure I am carrying carbide hole saws in my truck as this is the best material on the market to get through stainless steel. The sizes on hole saws vary vastly. Sometimes you will need a 5/8” hole, and sometimes you will need a fist sized 6” hole for shoving a hand-full of wires into a wall. Be sure you have carbide so you can defeat any material.

Check out my assessment and comparison of the StrongArm carbide drill bit to a normal hardware store drill bit. Contrary to popular belief, all drill bits are not created equal! First, we will look at the hardware store bit. In my comparison video, I drilled for twelve seconds on stone with ample pressure, and did not even make a dent. The StrongArm bit made easy work of boring a hole through the many different materials on this application such as stone, metal, and wood! The stone was penetrated in less than two seconds with this bit, and the total drill job took just a couple of minutes. There is nothing that will pose a problem for this bit, it is worth the investment to get the job done quickly and efficiently. Remember, time is money! If you are interested in trying these bad boys out for yourself, please click the amazon link. For more information, visit WaynesLockShop.com

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Thanks for stopping by, we’ll see you soon!

By |2022-03-29T00:14:32+00:00March 29th, 2022|Access Control, Door Operators, Exit Devices|0 Comments

DIY Sargent 700 Series ET Trim Conversion

This article originally appeared in the April, 2015 edition of Keynotes.

Introduction

This article can be digested in 3 ways: a DIY method to change the function of the 700 Series ET trim used on a Sargent 8800 rim exit device, an example of the thought process associated with thinking “outside of the box” and using it in the field effectively, or a combination of the two. It is intended primarily for institutional locksmiths because it requires benchmark testing in the field and I cannot imagine that is cost efficient for a locksmith company under most circumstances (unless you have a spare door and hardware at your shop). Not to mention, a locksmith company is more inclined to provide a solution with a warranty; that is a selling point after all. Can all locksmiths take away something from this? Absolutely, but for the most part an institutional locksmith is going to benefit a lot more from this article.

The Situation

We have 3 residential halls on campus that use Sargent’s 8800 rim exit device with the 700 Series ET trim (Figure 1) on all mechanical, electrical, and transformer rooms; 10 doors in all. The problem is that when these buildings were renovated the contractors chose to use Sargent’s 13 (ANSI 08) function: key outside unlocks/locks trim. Essentially, it’s a classroom function trim. We all know the potential problem with classroom function locks: employees forgetting to lock up. This creates potential safety and liability situations, especially considering the contents of these rooms, which we should always do our best to avoid.

Figure 1

Figure 1


The solution is simple, right? Use storeroom function trim. Sargent sells a kit just for this called the 607-2 Locking Slide Replacement Kit. A 607-2 slide kit costs me $64.11 and is retrofit-able. 10 doors, that’s a total of $641.10. You may be thinking, “$64.11? I get it for far less than that!” I’m an institutional locksmith at a small college. I’m not a large volume costumer; I don’t get the good pricing (not that I would expect or demand it – I understand why things are the way they are). That’s a good bit of my monthly budget, however.
What if I could modify the existing 700 Series ET trimtrim to accomplish the same goal of converting it to storeroom function but at a substantially cheaper price? It’d have to be reliable, cost efficient, and easily crafted in order to be worth the effort.

Warranties, Underwriter Laboratories Listed Hardware, and Other Considerations

Before we touch on any field modifications, let’s discuss potential implications and liabilities. First, the trim and slide kit carry 5 year warranties. Altering either voids the warranty. My trim was out of warranty already. What did I have to lose? Ruining one slide and buying the kit? It was worth the tradeoff.
And without turning this into a primer on the difference between Underwriter Laboratories (UL) Marks, I’m only going to hit on a few points with regards to them (UL Listed, UL Certified, etc.). The absence of a UL Mark, usually a sticker, does not mean that the hardware has not been evaluated and met UL requirements and you have free range to make any field modifications.
Fortunately, UL has an online database that will allow you to determine if the hardware has met their requirements. There are a number of fields in the search area of the website that can help you find the product in question very efficiently. Of course, so will product literature from a manufacturer. I have found in my own experience, however, that it’s much easier to go straight to the source (UL) to avoid scouring a manufacturer’s website for that information. That’s just my preference though.
If, for whatever reason, you determine that a modification is necessary to a UL Listed product you can request a Field Evaluation from UL. In fact, if you’ve ever see a “Field Evaluated Product” badge, that was a result of this program. More information can be found at http://www.ul.com/field.
And hopefully you’re all well versed in field modification requirements of the publications adopted by your state, NFPA 80 for example. If not, please do your homework. It’s only a matter of time before you encounter a job that requires a code adherent field repair or modification.
For the record, the Sargent 8800 rim exit device on this door is UL Listed but the 700 Series ET trim is not.

Thinking Outside of the Box

It was time to find out if a field modification was plausible. The 700 Series ET trim with Sargent’s 13 function operates like a safe combination lock in some respects. The handle has a notch in it just like a gate in a combination’s wheel. The cylinder’s cam interfaces with the stainless steel locking slide (according to a Sargent exit device tech) that has a protrusion, much like a fence, at the bottom. When this protrusion enters the notch, the handle is locked in place. Figure 2 shows the 700 Series ET trim unlocked and figure 3 shows it locked.
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Simple enough, right? Therefore, it would stand to reason that if I could force the slide into the notch consistently until retracted manually by the cam then I would have my storeroom function. A compression spring could accomplish that job but what kind of compression spring did I need?

The Physics

Thinking outside of the box is one thing but having it work with physics is an entirely different thing. I could have found a spring, altered to make it work, and hoped for the best. But, I’m a calculative person and I would hope any outside the box thinker is as well.
All springs eventually fail but their fatigue, or failure, limit’s likelihood can be reliably calculated; almost predicted. This is accomplished by a mathematical equation known as the Soderberg Criterion. It calculates a spring’s failure limit using known attributes such as minimum and maximum forces applied, wire diameter, the outer diameter of the spring, spring free length, etc. It even goes so far as to consider the material’s yield stress, which can be found for any and every metal and it’s alloys you’re likely to find at the local home center or online. Suffice to say, it is a comprehensive equation.
I purchased a spring I believed would work, cut it to a length I had determined would fit inside the trim, and ran it through the equation. Did it pass Soderberg’s muster? Yes, with room to spare. If you’re not good with math don’t worry, there are online calculators just for the Soderberg Criterion. I used one and if you find the need to test the failure limit of a compression spring in the future a simple Google search will produce the online calculator.
This is an example of using math, physics, engineering, etc. to help figure out if a field modification is going to work reliably long term. Graphs, equations, tests, etc. all exist that can assist with field modification assessments. In this case, my only concern was the spring’s failure limit. I would recommend that any locksmith replacing a compression spring in the field that did not come from the manufacturer use the Soderberg Criterion equation to determine if the replacement will work. If you only take one thing from this article, let it be that.

The Engineering

If facing the 700 Series ET trim from the inside, or the side containing the internal parts, there is a perfect spot between the trim body and the right side of the locking slide (Figure 4). I decided that would be the best place for the compression spring.

Figure 4

Figure 4


Before I started drilling and making alterations, I needed to do a bit of measuring and math. As seen in Figure 5, the mortise cylinder’s collar determines the distance between the cam and the part of slide it interacts with. Likewise, it controls the distance between the cam and the portion of the trim body I wanted to install my spring. As it was currently installed, I couldn’t fit my spring in the area I determined would be best. I simply changed out the collars and I had my needed space.
Figure 5

Figure 5


Now, how to anchor the spring so that it stays in place and works as it should with the slide? I was limited at the top by the mortise cylinder’s nut. I figured that would be the top point of the spring so I drilled and put a spring, or roll or tension, pin there. Next, I “Dremeled” a notch into the locking slide to accept the compression spring (Figure 6).
Figure 6

Figure 6


I didn’t get careless; I needed a snug fit that could hold an ample portion of the spring. Also, remember it’s a stainless steel part. I don’t have to really worry about sacrificing the strength of the slide by removing the portion of material I did. I also knew the compression spring didn’t have the force to shear the spring pin. With all that done, I now had a place to put my spring and have it hold reliably (Figure 7). (Note the file marks on the cam; that was done to clean up burrs created due to incorrect cylinder spacing via the collars).
Figure 7

Figure 7

Bench and Field Testing

With the modification installed I, like any manufacturer, performed benchmark tests in shop prior to field deployment. 500 in all. Did my fix hold? Yes. Was that the end of my testing? No. In hand or in vise is one thing, on door in conjunction with device is another. That got another 4000 cycles before I determined the fix a success. 4000 key turns via Best’s ED211 Mortise Cylinder Wrench (Figure 8). This was a very tedious and mundane process but it was worth it. I pulled the 700 Series ET trim off of the door and brought it back to the shop to evaluate its performance.

Figure 8

Figure 8


Each door gets between 1 and 2 uses per day. Let’s assume 2 a day, 365 days a year for 5 years (my anticipated usage vs. Sargent’s warranty period). By testing the fix 4500 times, I’ve essentially benchmarked just over 7 years of use and it still works. I’m confident with that; that exceeds what Sargent would have warrantied by at least 2 years. Now it was time to take it off the door and see what, if anything, occurred and if anything needed to be altered.

The Results

Figure 9 shows the benchmarked compression next to a brand new, unaltered spring of the same make. You can see that the spring used in the benchmark tests is slightly more compressed but that’s to be expected after 4500 cycles.

Figure 9

Figure 9


Figure 10 shows the inside of the ET trim. There are two very faint wear marks. The mark indicated by the pointer is from the spring and the mark to the right of that is from the portion of the spring mounted to the slide.
Figure 10

Figure 10


Figure 11 shows the slide. The only wear marks I see are where the cam interfaces with the slide but that is what one would expect.
Figure 11

Figure 11


Figure 12 shows the spring pin. Enough wear to remove the coating but not much beyond that.
Figure 12

Figure 12


Figure 13 shows the spring with the side that interfaces with the slide. Again, very little wear. If this is what I can expect after 4500 cycles, then I consider this field modification a success.
Figure 13

Figure 13

The Math

One spring and one spring pin cost me $0.95 and $0.12 each, respectively.
Remember, we have 10 of these devices on campus. That brings my total, parts only, to $641.10 for the 607-2 kits and $10.70 total for the springs and spring pins. The difference is $630.40.
Now, I did have labor involved. In all, I spent nearly 4 hours creating and testing the modification over the course of a month. For argument’s sake, the average locksmith in America makes $19.15 an hour according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. That’s $76.60 additional labor just to create and test this field modification.
It takes me 30 minutes to perform my modification per ET trim (that’s taking it off the door and reinstalling included). I’d guess I could replace the 607-2 kit in half the time, or 15 minutes. So, labor wise, that’s 5 hours for the field modification; 2.5 hours for the 607-2 kit. Using the same average wage, that’s $95.75 vs. $47.88, respectively.
In sum, the 607-2 slide kit costs me $688.98 (parts and labor) and my modification cost me $183.05. Do you see why it’s worth at least considering altering a non-UL listed, non-fire rated piece of hardware to change its function, repair instead of replace it, etc.?
Furthermore, let’s assume the spring from a 607-2 slide kit and my spring breaks at the exact same time, outside of the warranty period. These are the only two I can imagine breaking; the rest of the slide assembly is darn near bullet proof. Of the two, which is more costly to fix? Which is easier to fix or which can be fixed faster (I don’t have to remove any parts to replace my spring – the 607-2 kit has installation instructions for a reason)? Which spring is more readily available? I may be partial but I’m going to go with my field modification on all questions (apologies if you have the 607-2 slide kit or their unique flat spring en masse on hand). Regardless, these are questions you should also consider when considering a field modification to a product.

So what’s the point of all this?

Well, it saved me over $500 but I hope it got your brain juices flowing. When a fix or hardware change is necessary don’t assume the right answer is to go straight to the manufacturer or distributor’s catalog. We’ve illustrated that with a bit of outside the box thinking, math/physics/engineering, and testing we can create our own solutions. My fix was not an isolated case; this sort of stuff happens on a daily basis to all of us. Do you think I toss defective Sargent 8200 series and Best 40H mortise locks or harvest them for their working parts? Are you guilty of the same? We’re hoping to fix a lock problem without buying a direct replacement or use the good parts elsewhere, which is the basis of most field modifications.
Our trade was started by individuals who hand crafted locks. Don’t be afraid to modify hardware so long as it doesn’t sacrifice its life safety and security qualities. Warranty voiding is at you and your customer’s discretion. Math, physics, engineering, etc. are rarely a gamble. With the right knowledge and tools, outside the box solutions will rarely be a gamble either.
 

By |2020-04-02T09:00:51+00:00April 2nd, 2020|All, Exit Devices|0 Comments

Von Duprin 9857 Cylinder Replacement

Introduction

The Von Duprin 9857/9957 is a surface mounted three-point exit device. If you can imagine combining a rim exit device with a surface mount vertical rod exit device that is the Von Duprin 9857/9957. The difference between the 9857 and the 9957, like all 98/99 Series exit devices, is that the 9857 features a smooth case mechanism and 9957 features a grooved case mechanism. Here are additional specifications for the 9857/9957 exit device:

One of the most common servicing tasks for the 9857/9957 is the rekeying or replacement of the exit device’s rim cylinder. While this seems like a straightforward task, there are some finer, important details involved. With this in mind, I will cover those details in this article. Here is the 9857 that will have it’s cylinder changed :

Von Duprin 9857

Von Duprin 9857


This 9857 features a 996L-NL lever trim option. The 996L-NL is a “night latch” function; the key retracts the latch bolts with each turn but it does not unlock the exit device permanently.
996L-NL Lever Trim

996L-NL Lever Trim

Process

1. Test the operation of the 9857 device and it’s key prior to servicing. If a problem exists with the device, the key, and/or the cylinder, it’s best to identify it before servicing further. If no problem is found servicing can proceed. but if a problem is found it may need to be fixed prior to further servicing.
2. Start by removing the main case unit cover and the end cap (marked with red arrows). The main case unit cover is secured in place with 4 Phillips-head screws and the end cap is secured by 2 Phillips-head screws. Removal of both items will allow access to the mounting screws.

Von Duprin 9857 Main Case Unit Cover and End Cap

Von Duprin 9857 Main Case Unit Cover and End Cap


3. Loosen the mounting screws on the end cap bracket. These screws only need to be loosed enough to allow the mechanism case to slide away from it.
Von Duprin 9857 End Cap Bracket

Von Duprin 9857 End Cap Bracket


4. Disconnect the top and bottom rods from the main case unit by first removing the two rod guides (top and bottom). Once removed, the vertical rods can slide forward and away from the main case unit.

Von Duprin 9857 Top and Bottom Rods Disconnected

Von Duprin 9857 Top and Bottom Rods Disconnected


5. Remove the 4 Phillips-head mounting screws on the main case unit. These screws connect the 996L-NL trim to the main case unit. When removing your 4th and final screw keep your hand on both the 996L-NL trim and the main case unit so that neither unexpectedly falls from the door.
6. Slide the mechanism case away from the end cap bracket and remove it from the door.
Von Duprin 9857 Case Mechanism Removed

Von Duprin 9857 Case Mechanism Removed


7. Remove the 996L-NL trim from the door.
8. Remove the 2 mounting screws from the back of the existing rim cylinder within the 996L-NL trim.
Von Duprin 9857 Rim Cylinder Screws

Von Duprin 9857 Rim Cylinder Screws


9. Allow the existing rim cylinder to drop out the 996L-NL trim.
10. To prepare the new rim cylinder, adjustments to it’s tailpiece are often required so that the cylinder is suited for the door and the device. We can determine the required adjustments by comparing the new rim cylinder with the existing rim cylinder. Break or cut the new rim cylinder’s tailpiece so that the length of the new rim cylinder (including the tailpiece) matches the existing rim cylinder. To accomplish this place vise grips, channel locks, or similar tools on both sides of a pre-cut portion of the tailpiece and break it off at that point.
Comparing Rim Cylinders

Comparing Rim Cylinders


Breaking Off Piece From Tailpiece

Breaking Off Piece From Tailpiece


Verifying Tailpiece's Length

Verifying Tailpiece’s Length


11. The new mounting screws will often need to be adjusted as well. In this example, the existing screws and new screws diameters were different and not compatible. Even if they were compatible, it is advisable to replace the screws since they are included with new rim cylinders. Break or cut the new screws so that their length matches the existing screws. To accomplish this place vise grips, channel locks, or similar tools on both sides of a breakaway portion of the screw and breaking it off at that point. Exercise care during this step to avoid damaging the screw’s threads; it doesn’t require much force.
Breaking Off Piece From Cylinder Screw

Breaking Off Piece From Cylinder Screw


12. Place the new cylinder inside of the 996L-NL trim and install with new mounting screws.
New Rim Cylinder Installed

New Rim Cylinder Installed


13. Place the 996L-NL trim back on the door, making sure that the tailpiece extends through the other side of the door.
996L-NL Trim Placed Back On Door

996L-NL Trim Placed Back On Door


14. Slide the mechanism case onto the end cap bracket.
15. Carefully mate the main case unit with the 996L-NL trim. Make sure that the tailpiece enters the case unit before proceeding.
16. Reconnect the top and bottom rods on the main case unit.
17. Reinstall 1 of the mounting screws in the main case unit. With 1 screw installed, we can check the function of the new rim cylinder as well as the rest of the device to ensure everything is positioned correctly. If something were not, it’s much easier to remove 1 screw instead of 4 to fix this.
Von Duprin 9857 Case Unit Mounting Screw Installed

Von Duprin 9857 Case Unit Mounting Screw Installed


18. Once the satisfactory function of the new cylinder and 9857 have been verified, reinstall all remaining mounting screws for the main case unit.
Mounting Screws Reinstalled on Main Case Unit

Mounting Screws Reinstalled on Main Case Unit


19. Tighten the mounting screws on the end cap bracket.
20. Replace the main case unit cover and the end cap.
21. Test the operation of the 9857 device one final time.

'Concealed Vertical Rod' Added to 'Exit Devices' Library Section

We have moved closer towards our Exit Device ID Tool by adding the ‘Concealed Vertical Rod‘ page to our Exit Devices section in the Library. This page will focus on exit devices utilizing concealed vertical rods. At launch, we have files for the following manufacturers:

  • AdamsRite USA
  • Cal-Royal Products, Inc.
  • Corbin Russwin
  • Detex Corporation
  • Falcon
  • Hager Companies
  • International Door Closers, Inc.
  • Jackson (C.R. Laurence Co., Inc.)
  • Kaweneer Co. Inc.
  • Lawrence Hardware, Inc.
  • Marshall Best Security Corp.
  • Pamex, Inc.
  • PDQ Industries, Inc.
  • PHI Precision (dormakaba)
  • SARGENT Manufacturing Company
  • Townsteel Architectural Hardware Mfg.
  • Von Duprin
  • Yale



By |2020-01-06T09:00:56+00:00January 6th, 2020|All, Exit Devices, Library Update|0 Comments

'Mortise Exit Devices' Added to 'Exit Devices' Library Section

We have added ‘Mortise Exit Devices’ to our ‘Exit Devices’ section in the Library. This page will focus on exit devices utilizing a mortise lock. At launch, we have files for the following manufacturers:

  • AdamsRite USA
  • Arrow Lock & Door Hardware
  • Cal-Royal Products, Inc.
  • DORMA Americas
  • Detex Corporation
  • Falcon
  • Hager Companies
  • Lawrence Hardware, Inc.
  • Marshall Best Security Corp.
  • PDQ Industries, Inc.
  • PHI Precision
  • Regent Hardware
  • SARGENT Manufacturing Company
  • Security Door Controls (SDC)
  • Tell Manufacturing
  • Townsteel Architectural Hardware Mfg.
  • Unison Hardware, Inc.
  • Von Durpin
  • Yale
By |2019-12-09T09:00:32+00:00December 9th, 2019|All, Exit Devices, Library Update|0 Comments

'Exit Devices' Library Section Launched with 'Crossbars'

We have launched a new section of the Library: Exit Devices. This section has been launched with a page dedicated to crossbar-type exit devices. In the coming weeks we will launch additional pages for the following exit device formats:

  • Concealed Vertical Rod
  • Surface Vertical Rod
  • Mortise
  • Rim

Once this section of the Library of has been rounded out we will launch the eagerly awaited Exit Device ID Tool. This tool will allow you to identify an unknown exit device in 5 questions or less. Here are a few screenshots from it:

 

This tool will be an industry game changer. No more emails, no more text messages, no more posts on online forums and groups – you will be able to identify what you’re servicing and in mere seconds. Best of all, like everything else on LockReference.com, it will be 100% free.
Stay tuned!
 

By |2019-11-04T09:00:05+00:00November 4th, 2019|All, Exit Devices, Library Update|0 Comments
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